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Веселое кладбище

Необычное кладбище Чимитирул-Весел (Cimitirul Vesel) в румынском селе Сепынца — уникальный образец похоронной культуры. Деревянные надгробия и барельефы рисуют не только типичные картины жизни покойного, но и сообщают о причинах его смерти в наглядных формах: сбил грузовик, наехал поезд, подкосила болезнь. На большинстве крестов можно обнаружить краткие стихотворные послания, обращенные к ушедшему в мир иной местному жителю, причем порой в более чем фривольной форме. Их содержание (правда, все они написаны на румынском) — мера внутрисемейных отношений: родственники зачастую не чураются рассказать прилюдно о пристрастиях покойного к зеленому змию.

Первые разноцветные деревянные надгробия появились в Сепынце в 1930-х годах, когда местный скульптур и художник Стан Йон Пэтраш начал украшать кресты орнаментом и изображать картины из жизни покойников, сопровождая рисунки ироническими комментариями от первого лица. В первых работах использовались преимущественно темно-синие оттенки, однако позже каждый цвет приобрел свой символ: зеленый олицетворял жизнь, желтый — плодородие, красный — страсть, черный — смерть. Сейчас на территории кладбища расположено около 800 крестов разнообразных форм.

Воплощенные в деревянных фигурках и эпиграфах воспоминания не идеализированы, но полны жизни: встретить здесь шутливые четверостишия и веселые картинки куда проще, чем классические надписи вроде «Rest in peace». И если разноцветный орнамент един для большинства крестов и памятников, то текст и барельефы на каждой могиле разнообразны и изображают картины провинциальной жизни: лесорубы с топором в руках, школьные учителя с книжками, велосипедисты, стоящие у плиты бабушки, и даже дети, играющие в мяч.

Кладбище Чимитирул-Весел в Румынии / Румыния
Повествующее о работе умершего надгробие на кладбище Чимитирул-Весел в Румынии / Румыния

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Разнообразные рисунки на крестах на Веселом кладбище в Румынии / Румыния


Надгробие с четверостишием и рисунком на кладбище Чимитирул-Весел в Румынии / Румыния


Веселое кладбище в румынском селе Сепынца / Румыния

Местный философ и поэт Думитру Поп (Dumitru Pop) — продолжатель дела и ученик резчика по дереву Стана Йона Пэтраша. Именно он по сей день занимается изготовлением барельефов и рисунков с картинами жизни почивших селян. При кладбище расположена мастерская Попа — и теоретически в ней можно сделать заказ на разноцветное надгробие; стоимость начинается от 200 евро. Однако каждый случай мастер рассматривает индивидуально

Ближайший к кладбищу Чимитирул-Весел город Сигету-Мармацией (Sighetu Marmației) расположен в 19 км. Добраться до местной достопримечательности удобнее всего на автомобиле; трасса DN19 ведет напрямую к кладбищу. Также из Сигету-Мармацией можно доехать на такси и рейсовых автобусах, следующих несколько раз в день.

Ближайший пограничный переход между Украиной и Румынией расположен в Сирете, в 289 км к востоку от кладбища. Переход открыт для автомобилей, велосипедистов и пешеходов. Миновав КПП, следуйте по трассе Е85, через 8 км поверните направо, на дорогу DN17А, и продолжайте движение до пересечения с трассой DN18. Следуйте по DN18 до города Сигету-Мармацией, затем продолжайте движение по DN19 до кладбища Чимитирул-Весе

Необычное кладбище Чимитирул-Весел расположено в деревеньке Сепынца на севере Румынии, в километре от румыно-украинской границы.

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